Society

Silent Theology: Pope Leo XIV’s Designer Explains His Style

The pope’s return to more traditional dress has drawn attention well beyond the Vatican. Filippo Sorcinelli sees his style as an expression of order, continuity and the centrality of Christ.

Filippo Sorcinelli, the Italian designer behind some of Pope Leo XIV’s vestments, says papal dress is meant to convey meaning rather than fashion. Photo: Robert Messer/picture alliance via Getty Images

Filippo Sorcinelli, the Italian designer behind some of Pope Leo XIV’s vestments, says papal dress is meant to convey meaning rather than fashion. Photo: Robert Messer/picture alliance via Getty Images

Pope Leo XIV’s distinctive style and his inclusion on a list of the world’s best-dressed figures have focused attention on Filippo Sorcinelli, the Italian designer who has dressed Benedict XVI and Francis, among others.

In an interview with Britain’s Daily Mail, Sorcinelli described Leo’s style as one of moderation and order, “a poised demeanor that above all is indicative of an orderly inner life and authority”.

Vogue included Pope Leo XIV among the best-dressed figures of 2025, describing him as “breaking with the humble tastes of his predecessor, Pope Francis”.

Francis chose “a surprising simplicity, almost a gospel provocation”, Sorcinelli observed, while Benedict XVI was rooted in tradition. Leo XIV, by contrast, represents a balance between the two.

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